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A CULINARY JOURNEY TO YUCATÁN: Mukbil Pollo and the Flavours of the Day of the Dead

October, 2024

By Chef Fernando Stovell

OCTOBER IN MEXICO IS A MONTH DEEPLY INTERTWINED WITH TRADITION, FLAVOURS, AND CELEBRATION.

As the nation approaches Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), the kitchens across the country come alive with the preparation of ancestral dishes, each infused with meaning and memory. Among the many delicacies served during this time, Mukbil Pollo, a revered dish from the Yucatán, takes centre stage.

Yucatán
OFTEN RECOGNISED AS ONE OF MEXICO’S GASTRONOMIC GEMS.

Is home to a rich culinary heritage that has shaped not only the food of the region but also influenced global perceptions of Mexican cuisine. My wife Maricarmen’s grandmother Ms. Zoila, who is 104, and her father (my father-in-law) Mr. Leopoldo, both from this majestic region, have passed down the traditions of Mukbil Pollo, an intricate dish that holds deep cultural significance, especially during this season of remembrance.

The Art of Mukbil Pollo

Mukbil Pollo, a dish whose name comes from the Maya language meaning “buried chicken,” is more than just a meal—it’s a ritual. It’s traditionally prepared for Día de los Muertos, where families gather to celebrate and honour their ancestors. The chicken is marinated in a blend of achiote spices, and wrapped in banana leaves before being slow-cooked underground. This method, which dates back centuries, imparts a distinctive smoky flavour and tenderness to the meat, capturing the very essence of Yucatán’s culinary history.

AS ONE CHEF ELOQUENTLY STATED,
“To cook is to connect with the past, to taste is to journey through time.”

This sentiment is never more true than when preparing Mukbil Pollo, where each bite transports us through generations of memory and tradition.

The Taste of Tradition

What makes Mukbil Pollo so special is the depth of flavour that builds slowly through its preparation.

The achiote, with its earthy and slightly peppery notes, melds with the smokiness of the underground cooking technique, creating a powerful, lingering taste on the palate. The banana leaves infuse the chicken with a subtle sweetness, while the spices dance in harmony, reminding us of the complex layers that Mexican cuisine offers.

In Yucatán, Mukbil Pollo is often served with a side of xnipec, a fiery salsa made with habanero peppers, tomatoes, and citrus, which provides a sharp contrast to the rich and smoky chicken. Every element on the plate speaks of the region’s respect for its ingredients and the deep bond its people share with the land.

Celebrating Life and Legacy

As Día de los Muertos approaches, families across Mexico prepare altars adorned with marigolds, candles, and photographs of their loved ones.

The food, too, is a tribute, prepared with care and devotion to share with those who have passed. Dishes like Mukbil Pollo aren’t just sustenance—they are offerings, symbolic of the unbroken connection between life and death, the living and the departed.

AS ONE OF MY FELLOW CHEFS ONCE SAID,
“The flavours we create are the memories we leave behind.”

In celebrating Mukbil Pollo and the vibrant traditions of Yucatán, we are not just preserving recipes—we are passing on a legacy, ensuring that the stories of our ancestors live on through the food we prepare and share.

THE YUCATÁN:
A Culinary Powerhouse

Yucatán, a region rich in history, is undeniably one of the most important states in Mexico when it comes to gastronomy.

Its influence on Mexican cuisine is profound, from the widespread use of achiote and the unique pibil cooking technique, to the reverence for local ingredients. It is a region where the past and present coexist harmoniously, and where every dish tells a story.

As I prepare Mukbil Pollo this October, I am reminded not only of my beautiful wife’s family’s roots but also of the incredible legacy of Yucatán’s culinary prowess. Its flavours and traditions resonate far beyond its borders, cementing its status as a cornerstone of Mexico’s culinary identity.

CULINARY ADVICE: When making your own version of Mukbil Pollo, consider the following: Patience is key. Allow the spices to infuse the meat fully, and let the slow-cooking process work its magic. Only then will you truly capture the essence of this ancient dish.

This October, as we celebrate the Day of the Dead, let us also celebrate the living traditions of Mexico’s cuisine. With each dish we prepare, we not only nourish ourselves but honour the memories and legacies of those who came before us.

Enjoy the flavours of Yucatán, and may each bite be a step back in time

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