EMBRACING THE SPIRIT OF DECEMBER: A Season of Gratitude, Reflection,and Tradition
december, 2024By Chef Fernando Stovell
AS THE YEAR DRAWS TO A CLOSE, DECEMBER PRESENTS US WITH A MOMENT TO PAUSE AND REFLECT ON THE MANY JOYS AND CHALLENGES WE HAVE EXPERIENCED.
It is a time not only for celebration but also for gratitude—an opportunity to honour the people and experiences that have shaped us. For me, this season transcends the festive cheer; it is a chance to explore deeper into the connections forged through the act of cooking, and to celebrate the rich culinary traditions that form the foundation of my heritage—Mexico, England, and Austria.
A Celebration of Traditions
Food, for me, is a profound expression of history, culture, and love.
Raised in a family with deep roots in diverse parts of the world, the meals that grace our tables reflect the multitude of influences that have shaped who I am. From the bold, vibrant flavours of Mexico to the comforting, traditional fare of England, and the refined elegance of Austrian cuisine, each dish carries the essence of its origin, and with it, treasured memories.
In Mexico, no festive season is truly complete without the unmistakable aroma of tamales gently steaming in the kitchen, but equally essential is the rich, mouth-watering delight of bacalao a la vizcaína — a dish that is not just food, but an embodiment of history, culture, and love. Imagine the tender, succulent salted cod, perfectly rehydrated and melting in your mouth with each bite. It’s gently simmered in a rich, vibrant sauce made from ripe, plump tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and a subtle blend of garlic, onion, and aromatic bay leaves. The sauce—thick and silky—coats every piece of fish, infusing it with layers of deep, savoury flavour. The soft, flaky fish soaks up the tangy yet sweet notes of the tomatoes, while the roasted peppers add a smokiness that lingers on the palate, making it truly unforgettable.
Each bite of bacalao a la vizcaína transports you to a place where time slows down, where the warmth of family and tradition fills the room. It is seasoned with just the right balance of spices—saffron, cumin, and a pinch of paprika—that work in harmony to bring out the complexity of the ingredients. The dish is traditionally served alongside perfectly boiled potatoes that melt into the sauce, adding another layer of comfort and heartiness. It’s a dish that wraps you in warmth, evoking memories of festive gatherings and the bonds passed down through generations.
The sound of the crusty, warm bread being sliced as it accompanies this meal, with its crisp exterior giving way to a soft, pillowy interior, adds another layer to this sensory experience. The bread soaks up the vibrant sauce, enhancing the flavours with every dip. The smell of these dishes—earthy, fragrant, and mouthwatering—fills the air and invites you to gather, to share, and to create new memories. The warmth of the spices, the depth of the flavours, and the joyous hum of family around the table unite to evoke a profound sense of connection to the land, to one another, and to the traditions that continue to nourish our souls.
In England, as winter’s crisp embrace settles upon the landscape, my thoughts inevitably turn to the warmth and comfort of a roast dinner, an iconic tradition that offers far more than just sustenance— it is an experience.
The golden, crackling skin of the roast goose, perfectly crisped to perfection, gives way to tender, juicy meat beneath, its rich, savoury flavour enhanced by the subtle seasoning of thyme, rosemary, and a hint of citrus zest. As a chef, the art of roasting a goose is about balancing time and temperature, ensuring that the skin is both crispy and glossy, while the meat retains its moisture, so each bite is a melt-in-your-mouth revelation. The savoury aroma of the roasting goose fills the air, inviting all who enter to gather round, eager to partake in this ritual of indulgence.
Accompanying the goose is the quintessential English Christmas pudding, a dessert steeped in tradition. The dense, spiced fruit cake, rich with suet, brandy, and treacle, is often served flaming at the table, a dramatic touch that enhances the sensory celebration. The deep, warm flavours of dried fruits, spices, and a hint of dark rum create an intoxicating fragrance that wraps the room in a blanket of nostalgia, making each spoonful a comforting reminder of past celebrations. Paired with a dollop of brandy butter or custard, the pudding is not merely a sweet course, but a symbol of continuity, passed down from one generation to the next.
Then there are the mince pies, with their crisp, buttery pastry cradling the rich, spiced fruit filling. The balance of the tangy fruit, the warmth of cinnamon and nutmeg, and the buttery flakiness of the pastry creates a harmony that evokes the essence of home—each bite a delicate moment of joy. As a chef, perfecting these pies is about precision—the right amount of fruit to pastry ratio, the perfect level of sweetness, and that golden, crisp exterior. They are not just treats; they are an embodiment of love, of family, of the joy of sharing something made with care.
These dishes are not simply about eating—they are about coming together. They represent family bonds, heritage, and the traditions that anchor us to the past. They take me back to my childhood, to the gatherings where each dish was more than just food—it was a celebration of the people and the times that shaped us. Every meal, every bite, was a reflection of love passed down, and the continuity of those traditions is what keeps these dishes alive. The smells, the flavours, the rituals—they are timeless, a tribute to the way food unites us all.
From Austria, there is the enduring elegance of Sacher torte, a dessert that holds a particularly special place in my heart. This rich, decadent cake, layered with smooth apricot jam and enrobed in a lustrous chocolate glaze, is a true reflection of my grandmother’s legacy—a recipe that continues to delight and evoke cherished memories. Its presence at our table is not just about indulgence but about preserving a piece of history, a quiet reminder of family, and the simple joy of sharing food with those we love.
Nostalgia, Food, and the TED Talk in beautiful Aguascalientes
This year, I had the privilege of participating in a TED Talk centred on a theme that resonates deeply within me — nostalgia and the art of mastering menus.
It was a humbling experience to reflect on how food is so much more than nourishment; it is a portal to our past, a means of reconnecting with memories, and a bridge to the emotions tied to the moments we cherish most. The dishes we prepare are infused with stories—stories of who we are, where we come from, and the legacies we carry forward.
During my talk, I explored how nostalgia in food creates powerful emotional connections. It is an anchor that ties us to our history, to our families, and to the defining moments that shape our lives. Each dish we craft is imbued with meaning, whether it is a childhood favourite that takes us back to a simpler time or a newly discovered flavour that transports us to an unforgettable place.
Reflecting on this theme of nostalgia, I realise how poignant it becomes during the holiday season. It is a time when we not only share food but also create new memories—memories that will endure for years to come. In the act of preparing and serving meals, we honour those who came before us, those whose traditions have shaped us, and those to whom we will pass the mantle of tradition in turn.
The Unifying Power of Food
This December, I invite you to embrace the season not only with the joy that food brings but with an open heart, appreciating the rich traditions that make each of us unique.
Whether it is the lovingly crafted tamales of Mexico, the familiar warmth of a Christmas pudding in England, or the timeless elegance of a Sacher torte, these dishes transcend the act of eating; they are symbols of love, of tradition, and of connection.
In both my kitchens in Mexico and the UK, we continue to honour the culinary traditions that have shaped me, while blending them into new experiences that celebrate the best of both worlds.
The forthcoming opening of Stovell’s Mexico® is a thrilling prospect—a chance to merge these cherished traditions with the exciting promise of something fresh and inspiring. It will be a celebration of the food we love, the cultures that have shaped us, and the people who join us on this journey.
As we reflect on the year past, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences that have enriched my life—both in the kitchen and beyond. This holiday season, I am reminded that food is not merely about sustenance; it is about connection, about coming together, sharing stories, and celebrating the things that truly matter.
From my family to yours, I wish you a season filled with warmth, joy, and the kind of food that stirs the soul—dishes that comfort, nourish, and remind us of who we are, where we come from, and the bonds we share