THE ETHICS OF SOURCING: Beyond Farm-to-Table
November, 2024By Chef Fernando Stovell
IN RECENT YEARS, THE FARM-TO-TABLE MOVEMENT HAS TAKEN THE CULINARY WORLD BY STORM, PROMOTING THE VIRTUES OF LOCAL, SEASONAL, AND ORGANIC INGREDIENTS.
While this philosophy is undeniably important, it only scratches the surface of a much larger, more intricate conversation about the ethics of food sourcing. As we delve deeper, we realise that the journey from farm to plate transcends geography — It’s a matter of fairness, sustainability, and humanity.
At the age of 15, while I was at the Naval Academy in Veracruz, specifically in Anton Lizardo, I took a trip to the highlands that would forever shape my views on food sourcing. It was there that I met a vanilla farmer named Marbella Martinez—a name I will never forget. Her hands, weathered by years of cultivating the world’s most delicate and labour-intensive spice, told a story of deep connection to her land and her craft. For generations, Marbella’s family had been growing vanilla, and as she explained the painstaking process of hand-pollinating each flower, I was struck by her unwavering dedication.
However, beneath her pride in the craft lay a quiet struggle. The volatility of the global vanilla market, coupled with the rise of corporate farming, had left Marbella and other small-scale farmers vulnerable to exploitation by middlemen who set unfair prices. Despite the extraordinary care and expertise required to grow vanilla, the profits often went to those higher up the supply chain, not to the farmers themselves. Marbella’s story was emblematic of the challenges faced by many throughout the region.
Years later, as I prepare to open Stovell’s Restaurant in 2025, Marbella’s story remains at the heart of my philosophy.
Ethical sourcing is not just about the quality of ingredients—it’s about ensuring that those who grow and harvest our food are treated with fairness and respect. The vanilla we will use at Stovell’s will be a tribute to farmers like Marbella, who work tirelessly to bring the finest flavours to our tables.
The principles of ethical sourcing extend beyond vanilla. Consider the plight of the vaquita, a porpoise on the brink of extinction due to unsustainable fishing practices in the Gulf of California. Every choice we make in our kitchens, from the seafood we serve to the farming methods we endorse, plays a critical role in the preservation of both ecosystems and livelihoods. At Stovell’s Restaurant, when we open in 2025, we will work only with suppliers who guarantee that their products are sourced sustainably, with every step of the process carefully monitored and traceable.
One of the most profound lessons I’ve learned in my career is the importance of transparency
In today’s food system, it’s not enough to simply label ingredients as ‘local’ or ‘sustainable’. We must dig deeper, asking difficult questions about the labour practices behind each product, the environmental impact of its cultivation, and the communities that depend on its trade. These questions, while sometimes uncomfortable, are essential if we are to build a food system based on respect and fairness.
When sourcing ingredients for Stovell’s Restaurant, I am committed to ensuring that every decision reflects these values.
Whether it’s selecting cacao from indigenous farmers in Mexico or working with small-scale fisheries in the UK, I seek out suppliers who share the belief that food is not just a commodity—it’s a connection to the people and the planet. For example, the honey we will use comes from the melipona bee, native to the Yucatán, whose ancient cultivation practices are steeped in Mayan history and ecological significance.
The journey to ethical sourcing is complex, and there are often no perfect solutions. But each step we take brings us closer to a food system that nourishes not just the body, but the soul. By supporting ethical sourcing, we honour the stories of people like Marbella, whose livelihoods depend on fairness and respect.
Through these choices, we not only preserve traditions but also build a future where food is celebrated not just for its taste, but for the integrity behind it.
It’s my hope that this reflection inspires you to look beyond the labels and dive deeper into the stories behind the food on your plate. Because when we do, we realise that every ingredient tells a story—a story worth listening to.