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The Story of Cacao: From Ancient Origins to Modern Delights

August, 2024

By Chef Fernando Stovell

CACAO, THE MAGICAL BEAN THAT GIVES US CHOCOLATE, HAS A RICH AND FASCINATING HISTORY.

From its ancient origins in Mesoamerica to its modern-day status as a beloved global treat, cacao’s journey is as complex and delightful as the flavours it produces. Join me as we explore the origins of cacao, its cultural significance, and some innovative ideas to incorporate this delicious ingredient into your culinary adventures.

The Ancient Origins of Cacao.

Cacao has been revered for thousands of years, dating back to ancient civilisations like the Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs.

The Olmecs, one of the earliest known Mesoamerican civilisations, were likely the first to cultivate cacao around 1500 BCE. They used it to create a bitter beverage often mixed with spices and consumed during religious ceremonies and rituals.

The Mayans and Aztecs later adopted cacao, elevating its status to that of a divine gift. For the Mayans, cacao symbolised abundance and was used in both daily life and sacred rituals. They believed that cacao was discovered by the gods and given to humans as a source of wisdom and power. Similarly, the Aztecs revered cacao, using it as currency and in ceremonial offerings. The Aztec emperor Montezuma was said to consume large quantities of a cacao beverage, known as “xocoatl,” to enhance his stamina.

Cacao’s Journey to the Modern World

When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in the Americas, they were introduced to cacao and quickly became enamoured with it. They brought it back to Europe, where it underwent several transformations.

Initially consumed as a bitter drink, cacao was eventually sweetened with sugar and flavoured with vanilla, becoming a luxurious beverage for the European elite.

Over time, the process of making chocolate evolved, leading to the creation of solid chocolate bars in the 19th century. Innovations such as conching and tempering improved the texture and flavour of chocolate, making it more accessible and enjoyable for everyone. Today, cacao is a global commodity, and chocolate is a ubiquitous treat enjoyed by people of all ages.

The Components of a Cacao Bean & Its Uses

A cacao bean is composed of several parts, each with unique properties and uses:

  • CACAO NIBS: These are the crushed pieces of the cacao bean, rich in antioxidants and used in baking, cooking, or as a topping for dishes.
  • CACAO MASS: Also known as cocoa liquor, it is the pure, ground, roasted cacao beans in liquid form. It serves as the base for chocolate production.
  • CACAO BUTTER: The fat extracted from the cacao bean, used in chocolate production, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals.
  • CACAO POWDER: Made by removing most of the cacao butter from the cacao mass, it is used in baking and beverages.

Personal Encounters with Cacao

My personal journey with cacao has taken me to the heart of its origins. In Tabasco and Chiapas, I had the privilege of tasting cacao directly from the source.


These experiences were transformative, offering a profound appreciation for the intricate processes involved in cultivating and preparing cacao. The rich, earthy flavours of freshly harvested cacao are unparalleled and have deeply influenced my culinary approach.


During my time as a student at Westminster College in the UK, I was fortunate to learn from Chef Gary Hunter, a distinguished mentor and chocolatier ambassador whose lessons on cacao were nothing short of outstanding. His insights into the historical, cultural, and practical aspects of cacao enriched my understanding and inspired my culinary creativity. https://hunterschocolate.co.uk/

While judging at MasterChef México, I had the privilege of meeting a dear friend and colleague, Chef José Ramón Castillo. As a renowned chocolatier, his expertise and passion for chocolate are truly inspiring. Our conversations delved deeply into his extensive knowledge and unwavering admiration for this versatile ingredient. His insights into the intricate art of chocolate-making were both enlightening and captivating.

If you find yourself in Mexico, I highly recommend visiting his establishment, Que Bo!, to experience his exceptional creations firsthand. You can learn more about his work and offerings at https://quebo.mx/

Innovative Cacao Dishes from Acclaimed Chefs

These innovative cacao dishes from highly acclaimed chefs showcase the incredible versatility and depth of this extraordinary ingredient. From meat and game to vegetables and sauces, cacao can enhance a wide array of dishes, adding unique and sophisticated flavors. Try these ideas in your kitchen to experience the culinary magic of cacao.

THOMAS KELLER’S CACAO-CRUSTED VENISON
by Thomas Keller

Renowned for his meticulous approach to cuisine, suggests cacao-crusted venison. The cacao adds a deep, earthy flavour to the tender meat. To prepare, mix cacao nibs with crushed juniper berries, black pepper, and sea salt. Coat the venison and sear it to create a rich, caramelised crust. Finish by roasting it in the oven until perfectly cooked.

HESTON BLUMENTHAL’S CACAO AND BEETROOT RISOTTO
by Heston Blumenthal

Known for his experimental cooking, combines cacao and beetroot in a stunning risotto. The earthy sweetness of beetroot pairs wonderfully with the slight bitterness of cacao. Cook the risotto with finely diced beetroot, then stir in a small amount of cacao powder towards the end. Finish with a touch of mascarpone and grated dark chocolate for a surprising and delicious twist.

MASSIMO BOTTURA’S CACAO-BRAISED PORK BELLY
by Massimo Bottura

Famous for his inventive Italian cuisine, recommends a cacao-braised pork belly. Braise the pork belly in a mixture of chicken stock, red wine, and a small amount of cacao powder. The cacao enriches the sauce, providing a beautiful balance to the fatty pork. Serve with polenta or mashed potatoes for a comforting dish with a gourmet touch.

GRANT ACHATZ’S CACAO AND AVOCADO SALAD
by Grant Achatz

Known for his avant-garde culinary creations, presents a cacao and avocado salad. Thinly slice avocado and arrange on a plate. Drizzle with a dressing made from olive oil, lime juice, and a touch of cacao powder. Garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds and microgreens. The cacao adds a subtle complexity to the fresh, creamy avocado.

RENÉ REDZEPI’S CACAO-INFUSED GAME BIRD
by René Redzepi

Renowned for his New Nordic cuisine, uses cacao to infuse game birds like quail or pheasant. Prepare a brine with water, salt, sugar, and cacao nibs. Brine the game bird for several hours before roasting. The cacao imparts a delicate, smoky flavour that enhances the natural taste of the bird.

YOTAM OTTOLENGHI’S CACAO AND CHILI ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
by Yotam Ottolenghi

Celebrated for his inventive vegetable dishes, combines cacao and chili in a roasted cauliflower dish. Toss cauliflower florets with olive oil, chili flakes, and a sprinkle of cacao powder. Roast until caramelised and tender. The cacao adds a hint of bitterness that balances the heat of the chili and the sweetness of the roasted cauliflower.

JORGE VALLEJO’S CACAO-ROASTED VEGETABLES
by Jorge Vallejo

of Quintonil fame brings an innovative touch to roasted vegetables with cacao. Toss seasonal vegetables like carrots, beets, and sweet potatoes in olive oil, sea salt, and a sprinkle of cacao powder. Roast until tender and caramelised. The cacao adds an earthy note that enhances the natural sweetness of the vegetables.

ELENA REYGADAS’ CACAO AND COFFEE-RUBBED DUCK BREAST
by Elena Reygadas

Acclaimed for her work at Rosetta, crafts a cacao and coffee-rubbed duck breast. The rich flavours of cacao and coffee enhance the savory taste of the duck. Rub the duck breast with a mixture of cacao powder, finely ground coffee, brown sugar, salt, and pepper. Sear the duck to render the fat and achieve a crispy skin, then finish in the oven. Serve with a side of roasted vegetables or a light salad.

Cacao’s journey from ancient Mesoamerican civilizations to modern kitchens is a testament to its enduring allure and versatility.

Whether you enjoy it in sweet desserts, savoury dishes, or innovative beverages, cacao continues to captivate our taste buds and inspire our culinary creativity. So, next time you’re in the kitchen, let the rich history and complex flavours of cacao guide your culinary adventures.

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